Manufacture of neckties



Aug. 25, 1942. M. s. MAL EK MANUFACTURE OF NEGKTIES Filed April 8, 1941%N\ I m Q v n V WN Jaw WW 1 3 NJ VR Patented Aug. 25, 1942 UNlTED STATEMANUFACTURE OF NECKTIES Morris S. Malek, Bronx, N. Y., assignor to James0*. McCurrach, New York, N. Y.

Application April 8, 1941, Serial No. 387,378

3 Claims.

proved methods and means for the manufacture of neckties.

Certain high speed necktie sewing machines such as that shown in U. S.Patent No. 2,098,009 issued November 2, 1937, to M. M. Newman et al.,have possessed the disadvantages in that the tie element had to bemanually folded, and that the proper gaging of the lining and tieelements was difficult. If the gaging was done manually, it wasunreliable; if mechanically, a complicated gage and gearing was requiredwhich was expensive and not wholly reliable. In particular, the tie andlining elements would longitudinally stretch to different degrees, sothat the result might be off by three or four inches or more in thelength of the finished tie.

Accordingly, it is an object of the invention to provide such a sewingmachine with a tie and lining presented thereto continuouslypreliminarily interconnected in a very simple and inexpensive manner,with the tie already folded and in gaged relation to the lining, andwithout causing the preliminary interconnection to interfere with thecrimping of the tie and lining, and the final sewing together of thesame.

Another object of the invention is the pro- I vision of such preliminaryinterconnection in such improved relation to the high speedsewingmachine as to permit the tie and lining elements to be stretched as aunit while being fed to the machine.

Another object of the invention is to provide 11 a machine havingimproved means for gaging and guiding the preliminarily interconnectedtie and lining to the sewing apparatus.

Another object of the invention is to provide an improved machine andapparatus for advantageously utilizing a machine such as is shown in U.S. Patent No. 2,186,552 issued January 9, 1940, to M. S. Malek, forgaging, folding and stapling the tiefor a preliminary securement.

Other advantages of the invention reside in that great flexibility ofplant operation is obtained. For instance, if the sewing machine happensto break down, the operations with the Malek machine may continue and areserve built up, or the product of the Malek machine may be ferent waysamong the various operators to keep the maximum number of them busy orto utilize the skill of each in the most satisfactory way. Theseadvantages are especially applicable to small plants, whose supply ofwork may be iriregular, and which may have a rather small number of highspeed sewing machines.

Other objects and advantages of the invention will become apparent asthe specification proceeds.

With the aforesaid objects in View, the invention consists in the novelcombinations and arrangements of parts hereinafter described in theirpreferred embodiments, pointed out in the subjoined claims, andillustrated in the annexed drawing, wherein like parts are designated bythe same reference characters throughout the several views.

In the drawing:

Figure 1 is a diagrammatic view showing in side elevation a deviceembodying the invention, for the practise of the novel improved method.

Fig. 2 is a top plan View thereof, but with a necktie and lining unit inposition, substantially as preliminarily interconnected.

Fig. 3 is an enlarged sectional view on line 33 of Fig. 2.

Fig. 4 is a view of the necktie and lining unit.

Fig. 5 is a fragmentary diagrammatic plan view of a modification of theinvention.

Fig. 6. is a section on the line 6-45 of Fig. 5, with a tie and liningunit in gaged position thereon.

Fig. '7 is a fragmentary top plan view of a modified crimping jawaccording to a modified method.

Fig. 8 is a transverse sectional view thereof with a stapled necktie andlining unit applied over the jaw.

The advantages of the invention as here outlined are best realized whenall of its features and instrumentalities are combined in one and thesame structure, but, useful devices may be produced embodying less thanthe whole.

It will be obvious to those skilled in the art to which the inventionappertains, that the same may be incorporated in several differentconstructions. The accompanying drawing, therefore, is submitted merelyas showing the preferred exemplification of the invention.

, Referring in detail to th drawing, ll! denotes an apparatus embodyingthe invention, for the practice of the novel, improved method of makingties. This apparatus may include a high speed sewing machine ll, forexample, of the type disclosed in the Newman patent referred to. Forpresent purposes, it is suificient to state that this sewing machinecomprises endless belts or chains |2 trained over pulleys I3, andcarrying cn'mping portions M which are centrally slotted as at IE toreceive a needle such as I6. As the members l2 travel, the tie andlining elements are received between adjacent runs of the members andare crimped and continuously fed to the needle which is thus passedthrough the crimped portions to sew together the tie and lining. Afterbeing thus sewn together, the tie is turned inside out.

Th tie unit which is fed to the sewing machine H is indicated at IT, andcomprises a longitudinally folded tie ['8 and a lining IS. A preliminaryfastening means may consist of a longitudinal clamping means, preferablya row of staples 20, which interconnect the meeting edge portions 2| ofthe tie IS with the central region of the lining. The tie has beenaccurately folded and gaged and removably stapled to the lining as bythe machine of said Malek patent.

The unit I! is placed upon a table 22 having gage means to properly feedthe unit to the sewing machine As the feeding progresses, an operatormay remove the staples 20 so that they will not interfere with theneedle Hi. If desired, the staples may be retained until after thesewing operation has been completed, and then removed, but this mayentail a waste of material at the seam, while if the staples are movedtoward the fold lin of the tie, they may catch the yarn in silks and thelike.

Co-operating with the tie unit I 1, a gage 23 may act along therelatively straight raw edge at 2| of the folded tie, While a pointer 24may lie above the row of staples 20. One or preferably both such gagesare used, and they may be adjustably affixed to the table 22 as by a setscrew 25. Desirably the gaging means lies relatively close to the sewingmachine as shown, so that the tie unit may feed between the crimpingbelts in alined relation therewith.

In Figs. and 6 is shown a modified gaging means which may comprise atable 26 having alongitudinal recess 2'! for the lining. A gage 28 forthe edge 2| of the folded tie may be of U-shaped elongated form toreceive the meeting edges 2| of the tie. The lower jaw 29 of theU-shaped guide may be quite thin or beveled to readily enter between thetie and lining up to the staples 29, so that a positive guide isobtained by causing the staples to press laterally against the straightedge or jaw 29. The gage 29 may be adjustably connected to the table 26as by a set screw 39. Th tie unit I! as thus gaged may be slid along thetable 26 to be progressively fed to the sewing machine II with one hand,While with her other hand the operator removes the staples 29 as theycome near to the sewing ma chine, all as hereinbefore described.

In course of feeding the tie, the operator may pull on the tie unit I lat the end remote from the sewing machine to stretch the unit and assurean accurate feed to the sewing machine. Such stretching is easilyeffected when once the tie unit has been caught between the crimpingjaws. If desired, a tensioning means may include a weight 3| which maybe connected to a cord 32 trained over a pulley 33 and having a clip 34for releasable securement to the end of the unit H to leave the operatorfree to rapidly remove the staples 20.

In Figs, 7 and 8 are indicated a modified apparatus and method for thepractise of the invention, so that the staples 20 need not be removeduntil after the tie has been sewn. Thus each crimping jaw member 40,which may diagrammatically represent portions of the belt members, hastransverse crimping portions or teeth 4| interrupted by grooves for alongitudinal guideway 42 for the needle 43, and smaller transversegroove forming a longitudinal guideway 44 for the travel of the staples20, as the crimped tie and lining unit I! moves along by operation ofthe belt members of the machine Ill. Thus the danger of the needlestriking the staples is avoided, and the tie unit I! may be transverselycrimped to a substantial degree for the sewing operation. While thestaples to some degree tend to restrict the crimping, yet thestretchability of the bias fabrics will permit ample yield; in fact, theresultant increased tension will cause the staples to snugly hug theguideway 44 to lie therein.

In the practise of the invention according to Figs. 7 and 8, the staples20 may be placed further from the edges 2| or closer to said edges toleave some space between the row of staples and the line of sewing. Byretaining the staples during the sewing, there is no opportunity forrelative shifting between the tie and lining during the sewingoperation. The feeding of the tie unit may be effected with gages andmeans hereinbefore described.

It will now be apparent that the several advantage of the machine andmethod and flex-- ibility of plant operation can be realized in a highdegre by this invention.

I claim:

1. A machine for sewing stapled tie units having confronting jaw membershaving transverse crimping teeth and a longitudinal groove through theteeth forming a guideway for a needle, and a second longitudinalguideway through the teeth lateral to but closely related to the firstmentioned guideway to receive the staples of a stapled tie unit, thesecond guideway being substantially narrower and less in depth than thefirst guideway for receiving the said staples and for thus forming apositioning gage for the tie unit.

2. The method of making neckties including folding a tie and gaging alining therewith, preliminarily interconnecting the tie and lining alonga proposed line of sewng by stapling together said tie and lining atspaced points along a line spaced from the proposed line of sewing,longitudinally crimping the tie and lining to form a row of crimps alongthe proposed line of sewing and sewing them together through saidcrimped portions while the staples are in position by utilizing a needleof suificient length to pass through a multiplicity of the crimpssimultaneously.

3. The method of making neckties including folding a tie and gaging alining therewith, preliminarily interconnecting the tie and lining alonga proposed line of sewing by stapling together said tie and lining atspaced points along a line spaced from the proposed line of sewing, thengaging the tie and lining unit by means of said staples whilelongitudinally crimping the tie and lining to form a row of crimps alongthe proposed line of sewing and sewing them together through saidcrimped portions while the staples are in position by utilizing a needleof suflicient length to pass through a multiplicity of the crimpssimultaneously.

MORRIS S. MALEK.

